Tuesday, October 16, 2012

Life of a Limeña

I love arriving in Lima - as soon as you walk outside the airport you can feel the humidity and smell the sea - you immediately know you're on the ocean.
With a 430am arrival we obviously needed a few more hours sleep before a full day in the Peruvian capital. A long nap did the trick and we were ready for our 10am biking tour of the city.
We met our group near our hotel in Miraflores, one of the best and most convenient neighborhoods to stay. Then we headed out for 20km of Lima! First we visited Barranco, the Bohemian neighborhood where the artists and fashionable Limenos live... gorgeous seaside homes/condos and fun bars and restaurants. On through Churrillos to the end of Lima's coastline with beautiful views back over the city. Our turning around point was El Salto del Fraile - an infamous peak where "monks" jump into the sea almost daily, recreating a Peruvian legend. Too bad we missed the show. We stopped at an 100 year old taberna in Barranco on the ride back to refuel with some Inka Kola and typical ham sandwiches (I thought I left this delicacy behind in Madrid but it seems to haunt me...) We had a great guide who lived in Barranco his whole life and seeing Lima by bike was such a unique way to see lots of the hidden gems of the city.
Since this was John's first time in Lima we had to hit the highlights that were not on our bike route so we took a cab to Plaza de Armas and walked around the historical center. Marveling at the impressive colonial architecture of South American capitals doesn't get old to me!
After our full day on the town, John and I got ready for an evening on the town with a friend. Lima's gastronomy is so hot right now and the best way to experience it in just the two nights we have is of course to hop around with a local! Muchas gracias a Miguel for taking us around and keeping us fueled and hydrated!
We started our gastro tour in San Isidro neighborhood at the impressive new Westin hotel for their signature Lobby Lounge pisco drink. Then on to La Calesa, home of one of the legendary pisco sour recipes of Lima, poured by Sammy the bartender himself. After two pisco drinks: need food. So off to Malabar, a swanky spot by one of Lima's famous chefs Pedro Miguel Schiaffino. We sampled a creative spin on ceviche, and when you see Giant River Snail on a menu, how can you not order it!? It was amazing. All washed down with of course, a pisco punch! OK so we have to wake up at 330AM for the airport but there is one more important stop on any gastro tour in Lima - una chifa. These are Chinese-Peruvian restaurants and the fusion is out of control. We picked Gaston Acurio´s Madam Tusan, not quite a dive as chifas typically are, but a place where the atmosphere is as hot as the chili dipping sauce. Another pisco would have put us under the table so we washed down our Peruvian inspired Dim Sum with refreshing Cusquenas.
Fat and happy and very sleepy, Juanes and I hopped in bed for 3 hours of sleep before our second early morning wakeup call for another fun filled day!

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