Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Machu Picchu > Pompeii

Sunday morning I woke up bright and early in Cusco ready to check off another item on my Bucket List - Machu Picchu! Gilmar and I drove to Ollantaytambo and boarded the Vistadome train for our scenic transfer to Aguas Calientes at the foot of Machu Picchu. We didn't waste any time upon arrival and went straight up to the site. You climb up a curving staircase, about a 3 min walk, and turn the corner to find the grand Machu Picchu image you see in pictures staring you in the face. "I might start crying," I told Gilmar and seriously thought I was going to. Machu Picchu epitomizes the saying "photos don't do it justice"... and by the way neither does Where in time is Carmen Sandiego?.  So many times we would just stop walking and gaze. I asked Gilmar if it ever got old, coming to Machu Picchu once a week, and he said that it's a dfferent experience every time. I don't doubt it.  So I had been advised that instead of climbing Wayna Picchu (the iconic peak in the backround of the citadel), the better view is to climb Machu Picchu Mountain, on the other side of the citadel, as it is the highest point from which you can look down on Machu Picchu. I don't think Gilmar was too thrilled with my grand plan as it is almost twice as long a hike and sometimes you get up there and you can't even see down to Machu Picchu through the fog.  But I was not coming all the way to Peru not to try, so we decided if we were going to hike Machu Picchu Mountain, we might as well get after it.  It took us about an hour and 15 minutes to reach the top, sweating and out of breath.  No better way to get to know someone quickly, huh?  When we first reached the top, visibility was limited, but the clouds moved fast and we soon had the perfect view.

We spent the rest of the day hiking around the citadel. I'm sure Gilmar regretted telling me, "There's no such thing as a stupid question." (X, Rach, Mego & Kelly... we would have had a field day making up our own history here...)  Actually that's pretty much what I did all day while Gilmar just laughed or shot holes in my theories (shocking, I know).

I spent the night at the Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel.  Not as small as the Inkaterra in Cusco but also a very intimate, rustic luxury experience.  The Masias Family really did a fantastic job with these hotels! Inkaterra has a great three-tiered pool/hot tubs with water from the hot springs - so you can soak your muscles from your Machu Picchu hike without having to join the sweaty backpackers at Aguas Calientes.

Monday Gilmar and I took another hike to the Sun Gate (where Inka Trail hikers enter the site) and passed the final hours of my personal retreat at Machu Picchu. The Orient Express Hiram Bingham train was such an elegant way to end the Machu Picchu experience.  Gorgeous rail cars, a great bar with live music and friendly staff, plus an excellent dinner.  The Peruvian champagne they served rounded off my beverage tour; I officially sampled Peruvian wine, beer, liquor and champagne.  Would you expect any less?

I am so sad to say goodbye to Peru!  This was my first trip but certainly not my last.  I am already making a list of new places to go when I return, and next time I want to hike the full Inka Trail!

Saturday, April 9, 2011

I wanna know where da Gold at

Now that I am on my own in Peru I am really receiving the star treatment!  There is nothing like a private guide to make a destination really personal. Gilmar is my new friend and travel partner for the next few days! 

Sacsayhuaman
Today we visited the Sacsayhuaman, an Incan temple overlooking the city of Cusco.  It was constructed from stacking massive stones (some weighing 60-120 tons!) and I am still struggling to comprehend how the Incas got these boulders down from the mountains with no wheeled vehicles (at least the Egyptians had that!), sculpted them to fit perfectly with one another, and stacked them on top of each other with no mortar to hold them in place.  I can't wrap my head around it.  The temple was never finished as the Incas were mid-construction when the Spaniards arrived.  Everything genius about the Incan empire is magnified by the fact that, unlike the Egyptians, Greeks or Romans, they didn't have centuries to develop what they did - they really only expanded in South America for about 85 years before the Spaniards came and said gimme da gold

We also toured colonial Cusco, which is particularly interesting because it is one of the few of such ancient cities that is still inhabited as a bustling city today; most of the buildings' foundations and walls are visibly Incan constructions, with colonial buildings taking over about halfway up. Very cool to be walking around a room that an Inca probably used to live in, then a Spaniard, now me :)

Here in Cusco I'm staying at the charming Inkaterra La Casona, which operates like a private manor with only 11 suites and House Rules. I can't wait to soak in my tub tonight fireside in preparation for the big day that is tomorrow - I'm off to Machu Picchu!

Mystery & History, Beaches & Ballestas

The next morning we set out to check off something that was really on my bucket list - and if it's not on yours I recommend adding it! - flightseeing over the Nazca lines. These mysterious figures were formed by the ancient Nazca people (or by aliens, according to some) but no one knows how or why. Living on the plains, and without planes, how could they see what they were drawing into the rock on such a massive scale (hundreds of meters) and with such precision, these figures that can only be seen by air today? It is crazy and seeing it in person makes the mystery even more impressive.
Hummingbird, Las Lineas Nazca

One would think another day of back-to-back jaw-droppers is not possible - think again. Off the plane from Nazca we boarded a boat for Las Islas Ballestas. One of my fellow travel advisors described the adventure as Galapagos Lite. I have never seen so many birds in one concentrated area and had never seen a sea lion or penguin in the wild. We spotted rare cormorants, Ballesta boobies and mommy sea lions giving their babies swimming lessons or taking a tan.

Friday evening marked the time to say Adios to fast friends and fellow Virtuoso advisors. We had such a great group of women with whom to share these unforgettable experiences! Unfortunately for them, they're probably already back in the real world right now... or more likely sitting through their layovers in MIA or JFK... sorry about it... While I'm in flight en route to Cusco and Machu Picchu for 4 more days of my Peruvian adventure!

(Unless of course Julio picks me up from the airport, in which case I'm not coming home.)

Doing the Desert in Style!

Paracas has been the Limeños beach retreat for a century but how can you relax by the pool all day when there is so much more to experience in the region! Of course our stay at the Libertador Hotel Paracas started with nothing less than a pisco sour bartending lesson (I'm now a pro in multiple variations of the beverage). We're really getting used to daily piscos served by tall, tan y guapo camareros - can I go back to living any other way?started with nothing less than a pisco sour bartending lesson (I'm now a pro in multiple variations of the beverage). We're really getting used to daily piscos served by tall, tan y guapo camareros - can I go back to living any other way?

Paracas and the Southern coast of Peru is like the Pacific coast of Mexico in that it is a meeting of the desert and the sea. Thursday we viewed the coast in style by yacht... and a little champagne and ceviche completed the scene.

 
Taking a break from holding on for dear life,
watching the sun set over the California Desert
After a day on the water, we headed for the desert by night. We thought Lima never got rain with 1.5 inches per year- here in the California Desert it's 1.5 inches every 20 years! We hopped into our offroad SUV and headed out over the massive dunes... Are we in Peru or the Sahara? We put our lives in the hands of our uninhibited driver David, who assured us that he had experience driving the Paris Dakar races... Not sure whether this fact was comforting or even more unsettling! The experience was out of control, bouncing around the truck with windows down whipping around the sand and flying down 90 degree dunes. We stopped on a sand peak to watch the sun set over the Pacific ocean behind us - another magical momen to add to our list!


But of course when has one over-the-top experience on this trip not been immediately topped by another? We hopped back in the jeeps for a few more rollercoaster runs. As we crested peak of a 90 degree dune literally 2 football feilds high, facing down the sheer slope of sand, we were greeted by a candlelit cocktail party awaiting us at the bottom. David barrelled us down the dune between shrieks, oohs and aahs. Dining and dancing under the stars in the Peruvian desert - check!

The White City and the Capital City

Another long but scenic bus ride and we were back in Arequipa. We tried another Peruvian staple at lunch- a pepper stuffed with meat and veggies and baked with cheese, called rocoto. I admit I went with the avocado version as I'm too big of a baby for the hot pepper.

Julie showed us around Peru's second biggest city, Arequipa, or the White City, so-called becuase of it's beautiful white walled buildings constructed from bricks of ash of the Arequipan volcanos. If only Europe had been so creative with their excess of ash. Of course we went shopping for alpaca accessories in these adorable little shopping and dining areas within the courtyards of former Dominican monastery. In colonial times, a cloistered life in the monastery of Santa Catalina was the prized fate of the second daughter of Spanish and mestizo families. Good thing I was born a few centuries later or I'm sure Ben would have had me in there in a minute. The monastery is simply beautiful and the women there had a life expectancy twice that of women on the outside (probably because they weren't mothering 15+ children) but I don't think the cloistered life is for me.

Tuesday evening we flew back to Lima and checked into the hot Miraflores Park Hotel for another Orient Express overnight.  The hotel's brand new restaurant Mesa18 is another place-to-be in Lima - very swanky and contemporary cool. We enjoyed another fabulous meal (have I had a bad one yet?) compliments of another of Lima's top young chefs. Lima is such a hot culinary city - even our GM host Max had to admit it and he is from Buenos Aires! (But we won't tell your fellow Argentinians you said so.)

Lima is such a cool city because of this hip present, building on a rich and ancient history. Peru is home to the third oldest known civilization- right behind Mesopotamia and Egypt. On Wednesday morning we got a taste of this ancient culture at the Larco Museum - including an extensive collection of Pre-Incan erotic art... they sure wanted to document their good time in detail!

Midday we hit the road again bound for the beach!

Colca Valley Continues

Selling local handicrafts
over the Colca Valley
The Colca Valley is such a spectacular destination for two reasons: the awe-inspiring geography and antiquated culture. More than once I found myself just gazing out over the valley from my casita's terrace, up at the massive green peaks reaching into the clouds and all the way down into the valley where the homes are just tiny dots. It really puts you into perspective. The mountains are lined with ancient agricultural terraces used by pre-Incan people, about 60% of which are still used by the locals today. You see the women still wearing traditional colorful garb, hauling massive bags of potatoes across the feilds and men riding mules between the towns herding cows or alpacas. Of course once in a while the elderly woman with the alpaca is also charlando on her cell phone. But it really feels like a step back in time visiting this still mostly untouched remote mountian area. A visit to the market in Chivay, where most of the Colca Valley inhabitants get their provisions, should also be on your to do list.

Back in our oasis at Las Casitas (fully equipped with all the modern amenities!) we learned that not only does Orient Express know how to do breakfast right, they also excel at cocktail hour and gourmet regional dining. Stephan, Cesar and our favorite bartender Johnny took us down to a breathtaking lookout point over the Colca river where they have made a rustic little bar and lounge area. Johnny taught us his own little twist on the pisco sour (with a touch of aguaymantos, or gooseberries) which is definitely my new drink of choice. After some cocktails to boost our confidence in the kitchen, we got lessons from Cesar on the art of ceviche!
Unfortunately Tuesday morning meant departure from Las Casitas and the Colca Valley, but we had so much more ahead!

Friday, April 8, 2011

Consummate Colca

Wish I had more time to post, but I am too busy enjoying Peru! (Sorry I'm not sorry) Here is a little update from last weekend but much more to come!

Saturday night/Sunday morning we had a VERY early 2:30AM departure time from The Country Club Hotel in Lima for our early flight to Arequipa and on to the breathtaking Colca Valley.  We would spend the next two nights at Las Casitas del Colca, an outstanding Orient Express property on prime real estate overlooking the Colca Valley.  Wow!  The Colca Valley is really one of Peru's hidden gems - it was really only recently "discovered" by visitors and tourists.  It is a perfect destination for the adventure traveler, offering options from soft to high adventure, birders and both families and couples. Las Casitas del Colca is the place to stay here, a luxurious oasis to relax and enjoy the stunning landscape.

Vicuñas en route to the Colca Valley
The drive from Arequipa to the Colca Valley is a long one, but it is a trip in itself.  It is about 3.5 hours directly or 5 with stops (which are a must!) to view vicuñas (prized cousin of the alpaca), take in the stunning views of the Arequipan volcanos (Misti is the most stunning) and of course a photo stop at the highest elevation point - 18,600 feet!

Condor over the Colca Valley
The two days spent in the Colca Valley have been full of superlatives... Colca Canyon is the world's deepest canyon and the most magnificent sight - literally a "pinch me" experience. We got up early one morning to see the world's largest flying birds, condors. According to our adorable Abercrombie&Kent guide, Julie, condors come around for hopeful viewers about 60% of mornings.  The condors must have known we were coming because they all came out to play!  We saw at least 30 of these massive birds right above our heads and in front of our eyes. Condors do not flap their wings often but float on thermal currents so their flight is more of a graceful glide - a magnificent sight.  Julie said in her 5 years taking travelers to the Colca Valley, this was the best condor experience she had seen.

Cesar, Executive Chef & 
Cliffside Connoisseur
We thought the highlight of our day had already come by 9AM, but we were in for a fantastic surprise.  On our way back to Las Casitas, we thought we were making a photo stop, but who did we find waiting for us at a stunning look-out point over the canyon, but our gracious host and GM of Las Casitas, Stephan, and the talented executive chef, Cesar.  They had prepared a gorgeous champagne breakfast for us, just on a cliff overlooking the breathtaking Colca Valley.  We are so spoiled.

More on Colca later and our incredible next stop, Paracas! I'll catch you up on my way to Cusco tomorrow!

Wednesday, April 6, 2011

Pizarro's Chessboard

A warm Saturday morning started out with a leisurely breakfast out on the terrace of the Country Club Hotel. They say never rains in Lima; the coastal city gets only about 1.5 inches per year. But a misty haze covers the city in the morning and you literally watch it lift as the morning goes on.  Beautiful, but doesn't make for a great hair day!
Old Lima City Center
We took a step back in time visiting the home of Ana Maria Garcia, a woman who shares her traditional Miraflores home giving guests an experience of a turn of the 20th century Peruvian family. After a lunch of traditional "causa" (Mom, this is a Peruvian take on your tuna noodle casserole) we took out for a tour of colonial center of Lima, also known as "Pizarro's chessboard". For the past 8 years the government has been engaged in a revitalization project to restore blocks of abandoned colonial homes and buildings - incredible colonial architecture combining French, Italian and Moorish design. 
Jesse & me at dinner at Huaca Pucllana

Our dinner experience was quite unique.  Due to earthquakes, as Lima grew in the past 50 years, it did not build up, but grew outwards - the city encompasses about 60km.  As the city expanded, it grew around pre-Inca ruins which remain in place today.  What an incredible contrast to dine at the foot of a pre-Incan pyramid in an archaeological site just preserved smack in the middle of a modern city!

Trying typical foods is one of my favorite parts of travel, so of course I had to go for the "cuy" - or guinea pig, which is a Peruvian delicacy.  I just ordered it as an app so I didn't get the typical full presentation, which was OK with me! 

Saturday, April 2, 2011

Bienvenidos a Lima!

I woke up Friday morning in the most comfortable coach class seat I've ever slept in. Although Jesse, a fellow Virtuoso agent and new friend, and I were staring longingly at the LAN business class just two rows ahead of us, I have to admit I slept well for a planeride... a glass of wine and a sleep mask really do the trick.

Flying into Lima was beautiful - the expanse of the Pacific on one side and the magnificent Andes on the other.

We were met by our friendly A&K guide Luis and started off on the 30 min drive from the airport to downtown. Apparently the ride is typically half the time when not in rush hour. In explanation of the excess of political billboards, Luis briefed us on the upcoming elections in Peru, which will take place a week from Sunday. Fun fact #1: Voting is compulsory in Peru; you're fined if you don't vote. (Not as) Fun fact #2: Peru is dry for three days surrounding the elections. Guess I better get my fill of pisco sours before next Friday.
We checked into the Country Club Hotel in Lima's posh neighborhood of San Isidro. The hotel is aptly named and looks just the part, a crisp white oasis within the city. 

Lima's residential neighborhoods of  Miraflores and San Isidro are marked by beautiful colonial style houses with "box balconies" or enclosed terraces usually made of wood with ornate carvings and dressed up with ivy or foliage. It's like Lima's version of the beautiful old Southern homes of Charleston.

We explored Miraflores and did some windowshopping (I'm searching for the perfect alpaca scarf) before returning to the hotel to refresh from the long day of traveling we'd had. I took a book to the little walled pool and then spent an hour engaging in one of my favorite pastimes- hanging out in my hotel robe.

In the evening a few of my fellow travel advisors and I met in the hotel for our first pisco sour. What I love about the hotel is that it is obviously a 'place to be' in the area. The bar was lively, the restaurant was filled with Limeños and a gorgeous Peruvian bride was taking her pictures out front.

Now we are lucky to have a week full of fantastic meals at some of our destination cities' best restaurants (and Lima is known as one of, if not the, top gastronomical cities in South America) so we decided to go local for dinner. The most populous foreign nationality in Peru is the Chinese and they have been here for hundreds of years so they've had some practice mixing cuisines. We were recommended to a local 'chifa' which is the Peruvian Chinese restaurant (they're everywhere) but with their own Peruvian influence. Yum! We all ordered different things to share. In my opinion it didn't taste too different from other Chinese food I've had, but who doesn't like Chinese food!? And it was fun to sit in a little local Chinese dive and experience the neighborhood.

Today we have a full tour of the hotel and then a full tour of the city of Lima with Abercrombie&Kent.  We have a 2:30AM departure from the hotel (yes I said AM) for our flight to Arequipa so we plan to make a night of it. I´ll catch up on sleep and blogging on the plane and ride to Colca tomorrow.