Rapa Nui (Isla de Pasqua)

It is hard to summarize my experience on Easter Island, called Rapa Nui by the locals, but I can tell you I left a peice of myself there... it is such a special destination and people. Easter Island is one of the most remote places to visit.  It is connected with the rest of the world by once daily flight to Santiago.  Only local Rapa Nui people can own land. The Rapa Nui are Polynesian people, sharing their heritage with Tahitians, Hawaiians, and the Maori of New Zealand. Most islanders are descendants of just a few Rapa Nui families from when the island population was only 111 people. Many islanders are "mestizo" now, with mixed Chilean or European and Rapa Nui heritage but the traditional Rapa Nui culture is still very alive. The locals speak Rapa Nui language and uphold many traditions and fishing/agriculture lifestyle. It is a calm and peaceful island, where time seems to disappear.  A true departure and uninhibited experience for an American! 

The first afternoon we arrived we met our explora guide Niko who would be with us for the duration of our 3 night experience.  He is half Rapa Nui and half Chilean and has lived on Easter Island his whole life, with the exception of a few years in Santiago for university. We took a hike they call "Caves and Cliffs" where we could see the stunning rocky coastline of the island and many volcanic caves. The cave of "Dos Ventanas" (Two Windows) was an incredible cavern with two opposing "windows" overlooking the waves crashing onto the coast below. A very special place to stop for a little meditation and taking in the spirit of the place. We ended the hike on a magnificent cliff with a stunning sunset view. What a welcome! 

The 2nd day on Easter Island was a favorite day of the trip. In the morning we hiked to the huge crater of Rano Kau, the largest volcano on the island. Paige, Christian, and I decided to challenge ourselves to a trail run of about 2 miles around the crater's edge. It was a great rush! At one side of the crater is a small National Park area with preserved traditional Rapa Nui houses of volcanic rock built into the coast. 

Today we had an delicious picnic lunch of fresh fish grilled traditionally over hot stones with fresh grilled vegetables. 

After lunch we headed to one of the most iconic places of Rapa Nui to view the 15 moai! In Rapa Nui the word moai means "witness". These massive stone structures were sculpted to represent chiefs of a tribe after their death. They were all crafted in a huge quarry on the island and brought to an area of the island for that clan. There was a separate quarry of softer rock for the top knots (headdress) of the moai, and also for the coral and obsidian that would make up the eyes. Like many cultures, the Rapa Nui believe the eyes are the window to the soul. There are over one thousand moai on Rapa Nui, scattered throughout the island. After a peaceful era on the island when the Moai were crafted, the Rapa Nui had a civil war where most of the Moai were pulled down by opposing clans. So most of the moai are currently fallen down on the ground but many have been restored upright on their platforms. The 15 Moai are the most moai found together so it must have been one of the most powerful tribes. Of course we had a lot of fun taking photos with these guys!

On our third and final full day on Rapa Nui, we planned to snorkel in the morning but it was rainy so we changed plans. Easter Island has some fantastic snorkeling and scuba the water is so pristine and also great surfing (for an experienced surfer!). We visited the quarry of the top knots as well as the quarry of the moai. There are many moai standing all down the side of the quarry that never made it to their intended home due to the civil war. You can also see many moai half carved into the rock of the quarry but were never completed.

We also learned about the athletic competition called "Birdman" that happened every year on Rapa Nui and is still practiced to this day. In its original form, the clan of the winner of the Birdman competition would take over the mayorship of the island for the next year and the Birdman himself was prized with the most eligible virgin for his wife. Today it is an athletic competition with different challenges that occurs in the first two weeks of February. Challenges include: swimming out to two islands to fetch seabird eggs and swimming back without breaking them, running around the crater with 40lbs of bananas on your back, swimming across a lake on a raft of reeds, and sliding down a volcano on a sled made of banana leaves. Our awesome guide Niko was a recent champion of the competition!

On the way back to the lodge we were stopped by a local horse race going down the middle of the road. A man who looked like the Marlboro Man in a long worn leather jacket was organizing the race of men riding bear back.  Of course one of the guys turned out to be our guides uncle! (It's a small world here!)

 

For our final night on Rapa Nui we went to Kari Kari, a show of the traditional Rapa Nui dance. Wow, those Polynesians (men and women!) can use their hips! Some of us did not make it through without being pulled up on stage to participate! After the show, some of us stayed in town and went out for some cervezas and bailando with the locals... which made for a tired goodbye in the morning, but we were all very sad to leave... 

Exploring with Explora Atacama

Day 3 those of us up for a challenge woke up for a 7k hike at a higher altitude (3200m or almost 12000ft). The scenery today was unlike what we had seen before... Instead of being on the moon or Mars or in the red rocks,  it felt like we could have been in Arizona with cactus and scrubby vegetation, huge rock formations and a little river running through the canyon.  It is incredible how many different landscapes exist in this desert.  We hiked along the foothills of the Andes up to Puritama hot springs.  This area is a private reserve managed by explora with a private hot spring pool for us. I can tell you it felt amazing to soak in the springs after 2 hours of hiking up in that altitude under the hot desert sun!

Mauricio & Gina

Although my body wanted to take the afternoon off and get a spa treatment in the traditional adobe spa hut at explora, or relax by the pool, I didn't want to miss another experience in the desert.  So after lunch we went off again on a bike ride with Camilla into the Devils Gorge. This was a beautiful canyon with smooth white walls... The energy of the place is palpable and we stopped for a bit to take in the silence and let the nature seep into our bones. It's truly a physical and spiritual experience to be in this place.

Tonight we were all TIRED! A quiet dinner and early to bed... an exhausted group is the sign of a full and happy day!

On Day 4 at Atacama I spent the morning seeing other lodges that my clients have experienced or that I wanted to know. The good news is that they are all different but all wonderful and for a different traveler... so whoever you are, there is a perfect match for you in the Atacama Desert.

This afternoon we went out on our final excursion. Vernie took me and Peter out to the Valle Arco Iris (Rainbow Valley) where red rock hills meet money-green peaks and contrast with white-purple salt formations... All due to the different minerals making up the earth. Another amazement of how different this desert can be.

We were sad to leave explora and the Atacama Desert. I usually recommend 4 nights here and I will never let another traveler stay less! I could have used another day to do another excursion and also have a half day at leisure to enjoy the spa and pool. There is just so much to do and experience, and for all levels of activity and interest.

We are off to Santiago for a quick overnight and then Easter Island tomorrow!

Welcome to Atacama, The Driest Desert on Earth

Wow! 4 nights, 7 excursions, 3 different mountain ranges, and countless different landscapes, I am so inspired by the incredible destination of the Atacama Desert. I can't say enough about the management, staff, and guides at explora Atacama who played such a great role in making our experience here memorable.

I flew overnight from the US to Santiago... 10 hours from NYC or 8 hours from Miami but the same time zone as the East Coast makes it an easy trip. No jet lag! A quick connection to Calama and an hour drive to San Pedro de Atacama and we arrived at explora in time for lunch and excited to get exploring.

San Pedro de Atacama is in the valley under the famous Linkancabur volcano and in between three mountain ranges... Sal, Domeyko, and the Andes. Bolivia is just across the Andes on the other side of the volcano. It is the driest desert in the world; moisture from the jungles of central South America can't make it over the Andes and moisture from the Pacific can't make it over the other mountain ranges. The minerals that make up the mountains and landscape of the desert (especially salt) are so soft and soluble that the landscapes are so varied as they've been affected by wind and rain.

The first afternoon we went out with our guides Camilla and Juanjo into Death Valley for a hike... not too strenuous to get acclimated, but an amazing intro to the destination... I couldn't tell if we were still on earth or the moon or Mars!! The photos do not do justice but I can't put it into words either. We stopped at the top of a huge sand dune almost 90 degrees down... it reminded me of the sand dunes of Peru's California desert where I did the 4 wheel off road vehicle excursion. But we had no vehicle here... how are we getting off this dune?  We are running down?? We let our inhibitions fly away in the (strong!) wind and felt like little kids running down the huge sand dunes!

Back at explora we had dinner at the quincho (BBQ) with different meats over the fire while traditional Atacameno dancers performed.

The next morning we met our guides Andres and Pistu for horseback riding. Andres is a rodeo champion who competes around Chile and internationally so we were in the best hands. Those of us with little experience took a leisurely ride through the stunning red rock valley while those with more experience were able to cantor or gallop. The guides at explora are so accommodating of all levels on each excursion so that everyone feels comfortable and is able to take advantage of the full experience.  The horses are all well tempered and you can tell well taken care of. Explora is the only lodge in Atacama with its own horses and stables.

In the afternoon the group split up to different excursions and I went with Carolina on a hike called Kari. This is a protected area and only 6 hikers are allowed at a time, and due to the weather, it is usually only open once or twice a year. Only explora and Alto Atacama have access to this hike and it was a highlight.  We started in the Moon Valley and the unbelievable view is self explanatory! Then we hiked into Kari, incredible canyons shaped out of the salt. If you stand in silence at sundown you can hear the salt and quartz crackling as they expand with the temperature change... literally hearing the landscape growing and changing, feeling the earth alive. You can lick the salt right off the walls and see it bubbling up from the ground where the water has evaporated so quickly it leaves the salt behind.

Salt!

Our guide Carolina is from a town not far from San Pedro with only 30 inhabitants.  She said many of the towns like that are disappearing as the young people leave for higher paying mining jobs in Calama. They are trying to educate the young people in their environment to encourage them to stay and maintain the traditional agrarian lifestyle or become local guides.

After dinner on Day 2 we followed our guide Alex to the telescope on explora property.  Explora Atacama owns the largest telescope that is available for purchase by lay people (non science institution). Since there is such low moisture in the Atacama Desert (therefore no clouds) and little light pollution since it is so remote, it is the perfect place for stargazing.  All of us from cities in the Northern Hemisphere were amazed to take in the clear Southern sky freckled with stars. We saw the Milky Way, the Southern Cross, and with the help of the telescope we could see the rings of Saturn!!

Hey Seoul Sister

I was so excited for my 24 hour Seoul Stopover and the South Korean capital totally delivered. Now most of my clients aren't asking me to send them to Seoul, but the non stop IAD-ICN flight is a popular one for connections to other Asian destinations like Kuala Lumpur and Bali. Many times an overnight in Seoul is required ... but even if it is not a forced overnight, I'm about to tell you why you should consider spending some time in the city. 

Seoul is clean, safe, modern, and cultural. It's a big city but easy to navigate. If you stay on the North side of the city at a hotel like the Grand Hyatt, you're in walking distance to Itaewon (many shops and restaurants), Namsam mountain for walking, and the palaces. Streets and the metro are impeccably clean and the metro is very easy to navigate. It even gives you back your change after your ride if you don't use the full fare (unlike DC which leaves you with a card with $0.35 on it!). There is very little crime in Seoul and walking around as a female traveling alone (both during the day and at night) I never once felt nervous or uncomfortable.  South Koreans are very kind and basically go about their business and I never felt like I was sticking out or calling attention as a tourist.  There are also many Americans in Seoul both for business and due to the large Army base here.

Gyongbokgung Palace

 

The Itaewon area is a shopping/dining district but is fairly commercial with lots of American and international chains.  However there are also plenty of boutiques and local restaurants and international cuisine. Since I arrived in the evening and realized I forgot my make-up (#wishIwasjoking #firstworldproblems) I was glad to be walking distance to Itaewon and thank God for Olive Young (Korean ULTA). After a little shopping and exploring I had a Korean dinner of bulgogi for one and then headed back to the Grand Hyatt to get some sleep and get my body in this time zone.

Namdaemun Market 

 

The next day I headed to Namdaemun Market with all kinds of stalls where you can find anything from pantyhose to purses. The market is located right at the Namdaemun gate which is the only remaining gate of the original 7 gates to the old imperial city. The gate was harmed by an arsonist in recent years but has been well restored. From there you can walk north up the main boulevard and you'll find the Deoksugung Palace on your left, and finally the Gyongbokgung Palace at the head of the boulevard.  It's very cool to see these traditional imperial palaces right in the middle of modern Seoul. And while the guards are as straight-faced as those at Buckingham Palace, you can have your picture taken with them ... I think throwing up the peace sign is a requirement for posing for photos here.

 

Not to mention the amazing food. My neighborhood in DC boasts one of the best and most authentic Korean restaurants in DC so I was really looking forward to the real deal. Korean food is spicy, but not too spicy, extremely flavorful, and lots of veggies. Bibimbap and bulgogi are favorite dishes, and many restaurants bring your meat right to the table with a built in grill and you cook it right there to your liking. 

Finally I have to say a word about how I got here... on the Korean Air IAD-ICN nonstop.  It's awesome to get halfway across the world in just under 15 hours. The plane is spacious and the service of the Korean crew was wonderful.  This was my first time flying business class on a long haul flight (and probably my last for a while!)...but the flat bed is the best thing ever.

So thankful for this opportunity for a quick Seoul Stopover... I hope to be back! Now off to Kuala Lumpur!

It's a Wild World.... Galapagos Islands

Wow! We were been so busy hiking, snorkeling, learning, making friends, and out on the water that I barely had time to write! I just returned from a 7 days in the Galapagos islands with Lindblad Expeditions, aboard the National Geographic Endeavor.  Although I wasn't able to keep in touch from the ship, this trip is too special not to share so I am publishing some of my notes, and also including links to the Daily Expedition Reports written by our Lindblad Expeditions Naturalist Guides. This is a fantastic resource for Lindblad travelers and also for family & friends to follow along!

Each day we have visited a new island of the Galapagos oceanic archipelago off the coast of Ecuador. We started in San Cristobol where we met the ship.  Our first sight stepping off the plane was this sea lion taking a rest from his busy day of tanning in the sun. It was the perfect welcome to this place where the animals live so naturally among humans. They just hang out so close you could pet them.  This would be the theme of the week and what makes the Galapagos such a unique place!

Days 2: Espanola This is a small and uninhabited island.  Here we did our first hikes and a beach hangout with tons of sea lions.  There were lots of sea lion pups around this time of year, playing with their friends and nursing
.

Day 3: Floreana is one of the few islands where human communities do live. About 3% of the land of the Galapagos is inhabited and the other 97% is National Park and dedicated to preserving the natural habitats and ecosystems of the wildlife.  This morning I saw my first flamingo - my favorite animal! - in its natural habitat.  It is unclear how the flamingos made their way to the Galapagos since they cannot fly such long distances from South America... it is thought that they were blown by a storm and a small group of flamingos have inhabited a few of the islands ever since.  This afternoon we visited the Post Office that has been used since the explorers' days. Visitors drop their postcards and pick up any they can hand deliver... the food old fashioned way!

Day 4: Santa Cruz is the home of the Darwin center and the Galapagos National Park headquarters. Today we visited the giant tortoise breeding center where Lonesome George spent his final years, and then did some hiking through the cloudforest for giant tortoises in the wild.  To get there we took an uphill bike ride in the pouring rain... probably not the highlight of the trip but definitely an experience!

Day 5: Cerro Dragon, Eden, & Daphne More flamingos today! This time closer for better photos... although they rarely stop eati
ng long enough to take their head out of the water for a good shot.  This afternoon we did our second snorkel outing along a beautiful sea wall with stunning fish and sea lions swimming along!

Day 6: Bartolome is the home of Pinnacle Rock, this beautiful view! After an early morning hike to the top, we spent the afternoon snorkeling around the pinnacle peak where I saw a shark (well, its tail!) and an octopus! Today was definitely our favorite day of snorkeling... I felt like I was in the Little Mermaid surrounded by so much sea life!

Day 7: Genovesa Today was a sad day to leave but still very exciting wildlife viewing! We had our morning hike with one of our favorite naturalists, Greg, and hung out with a sunbathing sea lion in a lagoon, who was blowing bubbles and showing off.  We also saw some of our favorite birds: the frigates showing off their red puffers, and the red-footed boobies (which I prefer over the blue!).  This afternoon we took a hike on another side of the island... the landscape was so scrubby it felt like Mars. Here we saw the
Galapagos owl: 4 sightings, and two while hunting and eating! The one-eyed owl we saw was one of our favorite sightings of the week.

We truly had amazing naturalist guides. On Lindblad, the guides do not have a separate dining room; they eat breakfast, lunch, and dinner with us and are encouraged to mingle with the guests throughout the week.  We have become fast friends with some of them and this makes them so much more accessible for asking questions and getting to know them and their relationship to the destination.