Paradise = Ponta dos Ganchos

Ola from Brasil!  Today we say goodbye to Ponta dos Ganchos, my home in paradise for the last 2 days, but just the first 2 days on this Brazilian adventure.  It is raining for the first time in 30 days here… which means Florianopolis is sad to see us go.  But not as sorry as we are to leave!  One thing is for sure: 2 days is not enough time for this tropical beach paradise.  I'm traveling with Greg Wilshire,  friend and colleague at JG Black Book, which represents Ponta dos Ganchos, and my friend and best travel partner, Christina.

Ponta dos Ganchos truly is a special place – a secluded retreat of unspoiled beach around a quaint fishing & oyster farming village.  So not only do you have an amazing resort experience, the fresh seafood is to die for!   We arrived Tuesday afternoon and settled into our Bungalow – all Bungalows have amazing sea views but opt for the Esmeralda Bungalows for larger accommodations and a private plunge pool, plus your own sauna and huge soaking tub.  Christina and I shared a bubble bath after our massages and we could have fit 2 more people in there!  Massages and treatments are taken in the 3 partially-open-air spa bungalows (there is no full service spa); the sound of the waves crashing on the rocks below you beats any zen spa CD, that is for sure. 

On Wednesday we took a hike from the resort through the little fishing village and to a secluded beach – we were absolutely the only people there and it looked like the set of the movie The Beach.  In the summer locals visit the beach for surfing. Ponta dos Ganchos can prepare a picnic lunch to spend the afternoon in your own private paradise.

In the afternoon we took an authentic restored fishing boat (do not think yacht or speed boat!) on a cruise around the bay past the oyster farms and to a beautiful cove for an oyster and champagne treat!  There is nothing like fresh seafood you know came right from the local water that day!  The Brazilians have a delish cucumber and cilantro topping I need to know how to make for this summer’s oysters… (@Andrew Lolley)

As you can imagine in this remote and romantic setting, Ponta dos Ganchos is the backdrop for many wedding proposals, anniversaries, and special celebrations.  The tiny island off the beach is the perfect setting.   Greg, Christina, and I were lucky enough to enjoy (maybe the island’s first) romantic dinner for three!  Greg’s wife can be assured he did not propose, but if he had, who could say no on this idyllic set??  Gentlemen, take note. We enjoyed another fabulous and fresh meal with South American wine pairings.  My favorite discovery was a Brazilian sparkling wine, Cave Geisse Blanc de Blanc… now where to find this in DC…

Top Takeaways: Perfect addition / ending to a Brazilian OR Argentine itinerary (see below).  After all the sightseeing, shopping, nightlife, etc. wind down in a true paradise (and keep enjoying fabulous food!)… but keep in mind 2 nights is NOT enough!   I recommend at least 4… better 5 +.

Getting there: Florianopolis is a short 50 minute flight from Sao Paulo or an hour from Rio.  PdG is an easy 50 minute drive from Florianopolis airport.  There is also daily non-stop service to Florianopolis from Buenos Aires so you can end an Argentine adventure with a beautiful beach experience.

Passport to Paris

Loving the Left Bank! Checked into Esprit St Germain, a fabulous homey hotel in St. Germain des Pres. Obviously I got the room with the animal print carpet.

Jess and I joined Anne Scully and Jim Strong for lunch at Laduree - tres bien! Of course it didn't take us one meal to order fois gras... Great conversation with friends but hard not to talk travel when dining with two of the best in the biz!

Tonight we go to the Royal Monceau for cocktails and dinner at Shangri-La!

Hacienda Concepcion

Juanito and I spent our last two nights a 20 minute boatride downriver at Hacienda Conception, a byInkaterra lodge. This is a smaller property, a 4* sister to the 5* Reserva Amazonica. As it is a newer build the acccomodations are a bit more updated and certainly on par with the 5* experience. The service is more casual: meals are served buffet style, the reception desk and electricity only operate certain hours of the day. The guides undergo the same training program at both lodges, and our guides Allan and Gabriel were also top-notch here.

Juan el cazador learning the native techniques

Our first afternoon we took a hike around the lodge's reserve to get acquainted with the different flora and fauna just a short distance and on the other side of the river. In the evening we took another night boat ride where John almost became a snack to a 6 foot caiman!
The next morning we had a 4AM wake up call (are you noticing a theme here?) for a trip to the clay licks down river where thousands of birds fly up to 60km every morning to get the minerals and salt from the riverside - beautiful lime green parrots, blue-headed parrots, macaws, and parakeets flooded the air and then the trees to get in line for their nutrients.
We wrapped up our excursions that afternoon with a canoe ride with Gabriel in the creek, seeing more caimans, birds, turtles, and monkeys. The last evening we spent at the lodge with our new friends and fellow travelers, swapping stories over dinner and Cusquenas.
Another early morning awaits for our flight back to Lima. As much as I have loved the jungle, I have to say I am looking forward to air conditioning!

Welcome to the Jungle

A quick hop from Lima through Cusco and we landed in Puerto Maldonado 'airport'... not much bigger than Zimbabwe's Buffalo Range. We were greeted by our Inkaterra guide and taken to the Butterfly House, Inkaterra's reception house in Puerto Maldonado. Here you store any excess luggage you don't need for the jungle, check in while sipping fresh star fruit juice, and enjoy the butterfly reserve that gives the house its name. Then it's a quick drive to the port and set sail up the Madre de Dios river to La Reserva Amazonica.
Elias would be our guide for the next 3 days and became a fast friend to me and 'Juanito'. Our first afternoon excursion was to the Gamitana Creek where we hiked through a rainforest farm - so aromatic - sampling some fruits along the way. Then we hopped in canoes to navigate down the Gamitana tributary where we saw toucans, macaws, and a rare red howler monkey! In the evening we took a night cruise down the Madre de Dios to spy the nocturnal caimans that look like baby alligators.
Our first full day at the lodge we had a 5AM wake up call for our excursion to Lake Sandoval in the middle of the Tambopata National Reserve. The lake is about a 4km hike into the reserve, alongside marching leaf-cutter ants, swinging tamarins and squirrel monkeys, and lots of singing cicadas. Elias' good ears led us on a couple bush-whacking detours through the jungle in search of cappuccino monkeys playing in the canopy and watching us as curiously as we were watching them. Finally reaching Lake Sandoval we boarded canoes to circumnavigate the lake. We saw more caiman, lots of birds, and 8 baby river otters playing! There is usually a 20% chance of sighting the river otters so between this and my rare clawless otter sighting in Zimbabwe I think it's safe to call me the Otter Whisperer.
Back to the lodge for some rest and lunch before our afternoon in the Inkaterra Canopy! The canopy is a 344m system of hanging bridges and platforms suspended 10 stories high in the rainforest canopy. It is considered one of the most modern and sophisticated in the world. Not only is it an amazing excursion for tourists - both for getting up close with the birds and flora of the canopy story, and simply how cool to be suspended above the rainforest! - but also an important tool for the researchers in the Inkaterra Ecological Reserve. The walk ends at the canopy suite, where you can stay the night in a treehouse!
La Reserva started as a small lodge in the 1970s and has since grown to include a research center, ecological reserve, and NGO focused on preserving the biodiverse Amazon rainforest - we were thoroughly impressed by the research and conservation efforts that are apparent in every activity here. The experience at La Reserva Amazonica is not only conscious and adventurous but truly 5*. The dining is superb (with fun Happy Hour pisco specials!), and the service is top-notch.

Life of a Limeña

I love arriving in Lima - as soon as you walk outside the airport you can feel the humidity and smell the sea - you immediately know you're on the ocean.
With a 430am arrival we obviously needed a few more hours sleep before a full day in the Peruvian capital. A long nap did the trick and we were ready for our 10am biking tour of the city.
We met our group near our hotel in Miraflores, one of the best and most convenient neighborhoods to stay. Then we headed out for 20km of Lima! First we visited Barranco, the Bohemian neighborhood where the artists and fashionable Limenos live... gorgeous seaside homes/condos and fun bars and restaurants. On through Churrillos to the end of Lima's coastline with beautiful views back over the city. Our turning around point was El Salto del Fraile - an infamous peak where "monks" jump into the sea almost daily, recreating a Peruvian legend. Too bad we missed the show. We stopped at an 100 year old taberna in Barranco on the ride back to refuel with some Inka Kola and typical ham sandwiches (I thought I left this delicacy behind in Madrid but it seems to haunt me...) We had a great guide who lived in Barranco his whole life and seeing Lima by bike was such a unique way to see lots of the hidden gems of the city.

Since this was John's first time in Lima we had to hit the highlights that were not on our bike route so we took a cab to Plaza de Armas and walked around the historical center. Marveling at the impressive colonial architecture of South American capitals doesn't get old to me!
After our full day on the town, John and I got ready for an evening on the town with a friend. Lima's gastronomy is so hot right now and the best way to experience it in just the two nights we have is of course to hop around with a local! Muchas gracias a Miguel for taking us around and keeping us fueled and hydrated!
We started our gastro tour in San Isidro neighborhood at the impressive new Westin hotel for their signature Lobby Lounge pisco drink. Then on to La Calesa, home of one of the legendary pisco sour recipes of Lima, poured by Sammy the bartender himself. After two pisco drinks: need food. So off to Malabar, a swanky spot by one of Lima's famous chefs Pedro Miguel Schiaffino. We sampled a creative spin on ceviche, and when you see Giant River Snail on a menu, how can you not order it!? It was amazing. All washed down with of course, a pisco punch! OK so we have to wake up at 330AM for the airport but there is one more important stop on any gastro tour in Lima - una chifa. These are Chinese-Peruvian restaurants and the fusion is out of control. We picked Gaston Acurio´s Madam Tusan, not quite a dive as chifas typically are, but a place where the atmosphere is as hot as the chili dipping sauce. Another pisco would have put us under the table so we washed down our Peruvian inspired Dim Sum with refreshing Cusquenas.
Fat and happy and very sleepy, Juanes and I hopped in bed for 3 hours of sleep before our second early morning wakeup call for another fun filled day!

Peru, me vuelvo!

Boarding my plane to Lima as I write... Heading back to one of my favorite countries to travel... Peru! The country has so much to offer, you could never see all the highlights in one trip... Or three or four!

This time I'm off to experience the Peruvian Amazon - a jungle safari if you will. Of course taking a couple nights in Lima on the way in/out for some fabulous meals and of course pisco sours!

I'm traveling with my more adventurous and more bilingual brother - so excited for this experience together!

Stay posted!

Last Supper

Hamming it up at the Polo Bar

Our Last Supper as a group was spent at the gorgeous Westcliff hotel in Johannesburg, overlooking the bright city.  The hotel staff is the quintessence of South African hospitality, treating guests as if they were welcoming you into their own home.  I think this was the best meal of the trip. The chef's food presentation was as fun as his personality, and the pastry chef's desserts were divine.  Even if you don't stay at the Westcliff you must come for dinner when in Jo'burg! Of course we indulged in an after dinner drink (or two or three) at the Polo Bar and then kissed our goodbyes - until Vegas in August!