Forces of Nature

There are things in this world that are absolutely amazing, breathtaking, incomprehensible in their essence and magnitude. You can see photos, videos, and learn the facts and figures, but there is nothing like being awe-struck in their presence. Iguazu Falls is one of these world wonders. There is good reason it is or should be on your Bucket List.

Christina and I arrived Thursday evening into tiny Foz do Iguacu airport on the Brazilian side. I wonder how that little airport handled the X Games just a few weeks before! We were met on arrival by our lovely guide Indi, born and raised in Iguacu, and a proud guide in her 9th year, and escorted into the Iguacu Falls National Park.
With just one night/day to experience the falls it is important we stay inside the park and the only place to do so on the Brazilian side is at the historic Orient Express Hotel Das Cataratas. When we got out of our car at the hotel I put my hand up into the mist – “oh it must have started raining” – but Indi quickly corrected me – it was the mist from the falls I was feeling! Amazing. It was too dark so we could not see the falls but certainly could hear them and to feel so close in their mist gave me goosebumps!

Das Cataratas enjoys a perfect location right at the falls. The next morning we walk out the front door – there they are! I knew the hotel was the closest place you could stay to the falls but right out the front door was even more special than I had imagined. Another crucial advantage to staying inside the park is that you can get an early start and experience the falls before the park opens to the public and the tour buses descend and unload at the falls. Indi met us about 30 minutes before park opening time so we were able to soak in the sheer magnitude and magnificence undistracted, take all the pictures we wanted without unwanted background characters, and walk out over the falls bridge all to ourselves.

I have included some photos here but there is not much more I can say about the falls except photos do not do justice (and I am sure you have seen much better photos than mine!) and words cannot explain.

There is, though, the always-burning question: which side is better? Argentina or Brazil? One thing to keep in mind, for the American traveler, to enter Brazil you need a visa, which must be processed in advance of travel. Now Argentina also requires a reciprocity fee to be paid prior to travel as well. So basically you need to know which side you are going to visit (or both) in order to get your paperwork in order. You can’t decide ‘on a whim’ to include the other side in your itinerary. The typical answer to the question is true: from the Brazilian side, you have a more panoramic view of the falls, while from the Argentinean side, you can get closer to the falls. The falls are at a diagonal almost ‘facing’ Brazil which allows a more panoramic view. That being said, we got pretty darn close to the falls on the Brazilian side, walking across the pathway built at the bottom of one cascade and just over the breaking point of another! I’m not sure how much closer we could have gotten without taking a swim! On the Argentinean side there is a similar catwalk and they also have a pretty spectacular view. So my vote: you can’t lose either way.

Another note on the hotel: Not only is Hotel Das Cataratas perfectly convenient, but a 5* experience in itself. The dining room is beautiful and offers a la carte dining or the traditional Brazilian buffet. Christina and I chose the latter and I had probably the best lamb I’ve ever had, as well as the traditional rump steak with chimichuri. The service at each meal, as well as the front desk and guest relations, was wonderful.

Paradise = Ponta dos Ganchos

Ola from Brasil!  Today we say goodbye to Ponta dos Ganchos, my home in paradise for the last 2 days, but just the first 2 days on this Brazilian adventure.  It is raining for the first time in 30 days here… which means Florianopolis is sad to see us go.  But not as sorry as we are to leave!  One thing is for sure: 2 days is not enough time for this tropical beach paradise.  I'm traveling with Greg Wilshire,  friend and colleague at JG Black Book, which represents Ponta dos Ganchos, and my friend and best travel partner, Christina.

Ponta dos Ganchos truly is a special place – a secluded retreat of unspoiled beach around a quaint fishing & oyster farming village.  So not only do you have an amazing resort experience, the fresh seafood is to die for!   We arrived Tuesday afternoon and settled into our Bungalow – all Bungalows have amazing sea views but opt for the Esmeralda Bungalows for larger accommodations and a private plunge pool, plus your own sauna and huge soaking tub.  Christina and I shared a bubble bath after our massages and we could have fit 2 more people in there!  Massages and treatments are taken in the 3 partially-open-air spa bungalows (there is no full service spa); the sound of the waves crashing on the rocks below you beats any zen spa CD, that is for sure. 

On Wednesday we took a hike from the resort through the little fishing village and to a secluded beach – we were absolutely the only people there and it looked like the set of the movie The Beach.  In the summer locals visit the beach for surfing. Ponta dos Ganchos can prepare a picnic lunch to spend the afternoon in your own private paradise.

In the afternoon we took an authentic restored fishing boat (do not think yacht or speed boat!) on a cruise around the bay past the oyster farms and to a beautiful cove for an oyster and champagne treat!  There is nothing like fresh seafood you know came right from the local water that day!  The Brazilians have a delish cucumber and cilantro topping I need to know how to make for this summer’s oysters… (@Andrew Lolley)

As you can imagine in this remote and romantic setting, Ponta dos Ganchos is the backdrop for many wedding proposals, anniversaries, and special celebrations.  The tiny island off the beach is the perfect setting.   Greg, Christina, and I were lucky enough to enjoy (maybe the island’s first) romantic dinner for three!  Greg’s wife can be assured he did not propose, but if he had, who could say no on this idyllic set??  Gentlemen, take note. We enjoyed another fabulous and fresh meal with South American wine pairings.  My favorite discovery was a Brazilian sparkling wine, Cave Geisse Blanc de Blanc… now where to find this in DC…

Top Takeaways: Perfect addition / ending to a Brazilian OR Argentine itinerary (see below).  After all the sightseeing, shopping, nightlife, etc. wind down in a true paradise (and keep enjoying fabulous food!)… but keep in mind 2 nights is NOT enough!   I recommend at least 4… better 5 +.

Getting there: Florianopolis is a short 50 minute flight from Sao Paulo or an hour from Rio.  PdG is an easy 50 minute drive from Florianopolis airport.  There is also daily non-stop service to Florianopolis from Buenos Aires so you can end an Argentine adventure with a beautiful beach experience.